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我的非洲行攝之辛巴紅泥人篇

納米比亞的辛巴(Himba)族紅泥人,是近十年來互聯(lián)網(wǎng)發(fā)展才進(jìn)入大眾視野的。美麗的辛巴族女人傳統(tǒng)上用紅赭石粉拌和牛羊脂肪及草藥涂抹頭發(fā)和身體,保護(hù)自己不受太陽曬傷和蚊蟲叮咬,以致其外表呈現(xiàn)出特有的紅色,“紅泥人”之稱由此而生。如今走訪參觀辛巴族紅泥人村落,已成為納米比亞旅游的一個主要項目,也吸引著越來越多的人類學(xué)家和攝影愛好者。

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納米比亞共和國(The Republic of Namibia),原稱西南非洲,北同安哥拉、贊比亞為鄰,東、南毗博茨瓦納和南非,西瀕大西洋。海岸線長1600公里。西部沿海和東部內(nèi)陸地區(qū)為沙漠,北部為平原。15-18世紀(jì),荷蘭、葡萄牙、英國等殖民者先后入侵納米比亞。1890年被德國占領(lǐng)。1990年3月納米比亞實現(xiàn)獨立,成為非洲大陸最后一個獲得民族獨立的國家。

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納米比亞旅游資源豐富,是歐美游客的高端度假目的地,主要景點有世界上最古老的蘇絲斯黎(Sossusvlei)紅沙漠,南部非洲最大火烈鳥聚居地鯨灣港(Walvis Bay), 埃托沙國家動物園(Etosha National Park),十字角海豹灘(Cape Cross),骷髏海岸(Skeleton Coast),奧普沃辛巴族村落(Opuwo Himba Vallige)以及基特曼斯胡普箭袋樹森林莊園( Keetmanshoop Quiver Tree)等。2015年的 《Lonely Planet》將納米比亞評為年度十佳旅行目的地之一,非洲排名第一。

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我們的納米比亞行攝之旅是從首都溫得和克開始的。由于埃塞俄比亞航空公司的航司航段關(guān)系,我們從肯尼亞出來,必須先回埃塞俄比亞首都亞的斯亞貝巴,然后飛到南非的約翰內(nèi)斯堡中轉(zhuǎn),這才能到溫得和克。上圖是我們在納米比亞8天7晚的行程示意圖,最初的計劃是租車自駕游,后考慮再三決定雇車。

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由于行程關(guān)系,走納米比亞的這一圈,我們沒去最北面庫內(nèi)內(nèi)(Kunene)地區(qū)的奧普沃(Opuwo),那是辛巴族人的聚居地,他們至今還生活在原始社會的狀態(tài)下。我們選擇了去埃托沙國家動物園順路能到的卡馬尼亞布(Kamanjab)小鎮(zhèn),附近也有辛巴族人聚居點,我們選擇走訪的是個辛巴族人的孤兒院村(Otjikandero Himba Orphan Village)。上圖攝于紅沙漠里的死亡谷。

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我們也沒去納米布沙漠最南緣的基德曼斯胡普(Keetmanshoop),那里是拍攝星空下箭袋樹的絕佳之地。我們是計劃好在半路欣賞了只有在極旱地區(qū)才有的珍稀植物箭袋樹。若上述兩地都去,我們的行程至少還要增加兩天,且還很趕。如果這些地方的景點都去走一遍,那么我們這次非洲四國連游就要超過一個月。還是那句話,世界這么大,我們只能有選擇地去看看。上圖的箭袋樹攝于去紅沙漠途中。

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辛巴人是生活在納米比亞北部庫內(nèi)內(nèi)(Kunene)地區(qū)(原為Kaokoland)和安哥拉庫內(nèi)內(nèi)河沿岸的土著民族。原始的辛巴人是赫雷羅(Herero)游牧人的后裔,因為戰(zhàn)爭,他們逃到了納米比亞西北部氣候惡劣的奧普沃(Opuwo)地區(qū)。歷史變遷幾度沉浮后的辛巴族人以畜牧種植為生,至今保留著一些古老的傳統(tǒng)文化習(xí)俗,包括他們自己的奧吉辛巴語言、獨特的社會結(jié)構(gòu),以及獨特的生活習(xí)俗和裝束打扮。

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有資料提到,由于一種神秘的種族遺傳基因,很多辛巴男孩在15歲之前就夭折了,能順利存活下來的只有五分之一左右。這導(dǎo)致多數(shù)辛巴族部落男女比例嚴(yán)重失調(diào),差異甚至高達(dá)1:11。辛巴族人口數(shù)量急劇下降,加之外來文明的同化,據(jù)說納米比亞的辛巴族人口已經(jīng)從原來的5萬人,下降到目前的2萬人,是個行將消失的原始社會群族,故又有被稱之為“最后的紅泥人”和“最后的原始部落”。

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走訪拍攝辛巴族紅泥人,是我們這次行攝納米比亞的重點。從西海岸到埃托沙國家動物園,走C40公路,必經(jīng)卡馬尼亞布(Kamanjabu)。到了卡鎮(zhèn)后再驅(qū)車20多公里土路,就能到Otjikandero Himba Orphanage Village了。那是納米比亞第一個注冊在案的孤兒信托基金所在地,建點于1999年,創(chuàng)始人是南非白人Jaco Burger。在這個孤兒院村里的辛巴人,完全保持原始的生活狀態(tài)。這個救助孤兒基金項目也從奧普沃地區(qū)招募一些辛巴族婦女志愿者,負(fù)責(zé)照看村里的孤兒,志愿者定期輪換。這些辛巴族婦女也帶著自己的孩子,一起在這個定居點生活。項目基金提供她們糧食和醫(yī)療保障。

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進(jìn)這個辛巴族孤兒院村大門是要收費的,有向?qū)氵M(jìn)村,然后就可以比較放松隨意地訪問和拍照了。上圖就是這個村子的現(xiàn)狀,辛巴人的尖頂草屋,墻是由樹棍圍起來,再抹上牛糞和泥巴。辛巴人家庭施行一夫多妻制,第一個老婆必須是族長指定的,然后才可以娶自己喜歡的第二或第三夫人,但條件是至少三頭牛的聘禮。而且多一個老婆,就要另蓋一個草屋。幾房妻室,相對集中,再由樹枝作柵欄,圍成一個大家庭。辛巴人家里十分簡陋,除了地上鋪幾張羊皮,就只有鍋碗瓢盆了。

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盡管外部社會日新月異,但辛巴族人依然固守著屬于他們自己的文化和習(xí)俗。傳統(tǒng)的辛巴女人,常年裸露上身,腰間系一條短小的山羊皮圍裙。她們喜歡佩戴以皮革、鐵或銅為材料的大項圈,也有用動物骨頭碎片點綴裝飾。辛巴女人最重要、最珍貴的珠寶首飾,是在她生下第一個孩子后才能得到的一條有白色大貝殼墜子的項鏈,它象征一個女人的生育能力。

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由于世世代代生活在干旱貧瘠的沙土地帶,水資源極度缺乏,所以辛巴族只有已婚男子才夠資格用水洗澡。傳統(tǒng)上的辛巴女人確實很少洗澡,她們將一種取之山里的紅赭石(據(jù)說就是氧化鐵Red ochre、赤鐵礦石Hematite)磨成粉,并與牛羊脂肪以及芳香樹脂(omuzumba)調(diào)合成一種泥巴糊糊或油膏涂抹在頭發(fā)和身上,這種油膏被稱之為“Otjize”。

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辛巴族女子涂抹這種紅色的“Otjize”在頭發(fā)和身上,以滋潤肌膚同時保護(hù)自己不受太陽曬傷和蚊蟲叮咬。據(jù)說這種護(hù)膚防曬油膏還有美容脫毛的功效,久而久之便成了辛巴族女子公認(rèn)的美。如今這種文化習(xí)俗已經(jīng)受到現(xiàn)代社會的廣泛關(guān)注,也令攝影師們趨之若鶩。

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很多人都會對辛巴族女子的生活習(xí)俗刨根問底。據(jù)介紹,辛巴族女人是不洗澡的,但其實她們只是換一種方式保持個人的清潔衛(wèi)生。辛巴族女子每天早起后,要花大量時間“洗煙?。╯moke bath)”,我理解這應(yīng)該是一種“Otjize”熏香。

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這種熏香具體做法是,準(zhǔn)備一個鋪了燒紅木炭的盛器,撒上些芳香樹脂(omuzumba),也有類似的樹葉軟木等,讓其受熱后升騰起蒸汽煙霧,辛巴女人以此來熏蒸自己的身體。她們甚至還會用毯子從頭蓋到腳,把整個身子悶在蒸汽和煙霧里,邊出汗邊熏蒸,此為全身沐浴。

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回國后我查了一下有關(guān)資料,辛巴族女子用于熏蒸身體的芳香樹脂,是一種灌木植物“Commiphara Saxicola”,是橄欖科草藥類的沒藥屬植物“myrrhs”的一種,生長在極旱地區(qū)的巖層里,在非洲的索馬里、埃塞俄比亞和阿拉伯半島南部等地也有分布。沒藥是一種樹脂乳膠,中藥用于活血化瘀。古埃及人還用沒藥制作芳香精油,殺菌消毒力強,還抗皺。上圖女孩子手里提著的兩個罐子,應(yīng)該就是迷你版的熏香器皿。

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辛巴女人的發(fā)型是真正的杰作,而且隨著年齡和生理狀態(tài)的變化,辛巴女子的發(fā)型也發(fā)生著不同的變化。小女孩的頭發(fā)是向前梳束成兩條辮子,稱之為“Oruzo”(見上圖左邊那個小女孩);進(jìn)入青春期的少女,頭發(fā)開始向兩邊梳,并編成許多小辮子,而且可以開始抹上“Otjize”泥巴糊糊。小男孩只是剃掉兩側(cè)頭發(fā),剩下頭頂一簇,梳成辮子直接甩向后腦勺,或者干脆都剃光頭。

","text_del":0,"type":1,"video_del":0,"video_thumbnail_del":0,"vote_del":0,"watermark":"?meipian-watermark/bucket/ivwen/key/dXNlcnMvNTMwOTQyL2VlNzZiZDkwLWYwY2EtMTFlOS1iM2UwLTE1YjEzMTg1NmE5NF9fanBnLmhlaWM=/nickname/5Lil5a2Q5YGl77yI5ael6K6w6ICF77yJ5LiK5rW3/userid/NTMwOTQy/sign/d409f5dcf436c2d9b0d25cf3bc322ea2"},{"audio_del":0,"audio_music_id":0,"ext":{"unique_id":"696fea428136aa77acff2a47072d4dc0"},"img_del":0,"img_height":756,"img_url":"https://ss-mpvolc.meipian.me/users/530942/47995810-f0cb-11e9-b3e0-15b131856a94__jpg.heic","img_width":1080,"is_origin":false,"is_template_subtitle":false,"location_del":0,"sectionPublished":true,"sell_del":0,"source":0,"subtitle_state":0,"text":"婚后婦女會在頭頂綁上一個精致的(Erembe headdress)頭飾,這個像犄角的頭飾是用牛皮或山羊皮制成的。“紅泥人”是納米比亞辛巴族女人的特征,辛巴人認(rèn)為這種紅顏色很漂亮,正好是與他們腳下紅色的土地和身上流淌著的紅色血液一致,是生命的象征。辛巴族男人身上不抹“Otjize”。
","text_del":0,"type":1,"video_del":0,"video_thumbnail_del":0,"vote_del":0,"watermark":"?meipian-watermark/bucket/ivwen/key/dXNlcnMvNTMwOTQyLzQ3OTk1ODEwLWYwY2ItMTFlOS1iM2UwLTE1YjEzMTg1NmE5NF9fanBnLmhlaWM=/nickname/5Lil5a2Q5YGl77yI5ael6K6w6ICF77yJ5LiK5rW3/userid/NTMwOTQy/sign/d409f5dcf436c2d9b0d25cf3bc322ea2"},{"audio_del":0,"audio_music_id":0,"ext":{"unique_id":"585c56105101ec4cdac9398362b3d94d"},"img_del":0,"img_height":720,"img_url":"https://ss-mpvolc.meipian.me/users/530942/ee925be0-f0ca-11e9-b3e0-15b131856a94__jpg.heic","img_width":1080,"is_origin":false,"is_template_subtitle":false,"location_del":0,"sectionPublished":true,"sell_del":0,"source":0,"subtitle_state":0,"text":"辛巴女人梳理頭發(fā)過程可謂真正的工藝制作過程。我們走訪的這個定居點,看到最多的情形就是女人們坐在庇蔭處一起梳頭發(fā)編辮子。由于過程繁復(fù),據(jù)說一個人做一次頭發(fā)大約需要三天才能完成,所以大多數(shù)辛巴女人上午都在做家務(wù),到了下午才開始互幫互助做頭發(fā),這也成為辛巴人的一種社交形式。
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一個辛巴女人做一次頭發(fā),幾乎是通過多人合作才能完成。有一個人專門是梳頭發(fā)編辮子的,另外幾個人負(fù)責(zé)捻線,因為編辮子還需要大量的線來纏繞,這樣編成的辮子才能長久保持形狀,不至于很快松散掉。從上圖還能看到,成年婦女戴環(huán)狀腳鐲,據(jù)說它們的作用是保護(hù)腳踝不被毒蟲和野獸叮咬。

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我們也發(fā)現(xiàn),辛巴女人辮子的上半部分是自己的真頭發(fā),而下半部分則是假發(fā),這真假兩截頭發(fā)要接起來,也是件很費功夫的事情。這讓我理解和相信,為什么說辛巴女子做一次頭發(fā)要三天時間,而且需要多人合作、互幫互助才能完成。

","text_del":0,"type":1,"video_del":0,"video_thumbnail_del":0,"vote_del":0,"watermark":"?meipian-watermark/bucket/ivwen/key/dXNlcnMvNTMwOTQyL2VlYWU5NjcwLWYwY2EtMTFlOS1iM2UwLTE1YjEzMTg1NmE5NF9fanBnLmhlaWM=/nickname/5Lil5a2Q5YGl77yI5ael6K6w6ICF77yJ5LiK5rW3/userid/NTMwOTQy/sign/d409f5dcf436c2d9b0d25cf3bc322ea2"},{"audio_del":0,"audio_music_id":0,"ext":{"unique_id":"638fa3d44e8f65ebbaac34eb0c76277d"},"img_del":0,"img_height":964,"img_url":"https://ss-mpvolc.meipian.me/users/530942/15ad0a40-f0cb-11e9-b3e0-15b131856a94__jpg.heic","img_width":1080,"is_origin":false,"is_template_subtitle":false,"location_del":0,"sectionPublished":true,"sell_del":0,"source":0,"subtitle_state":0,"text":"那些社會地位高的辛巴族婦女,有時會在頭飾或頸項掛上小跳羚羊角,以示與別的婦女之區(qū)別。有些婦女也可能佩戴金屬手鐲,據(jù)說這象征著她們與祖先的神圣聯(lián)系。
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辛巴人種莊稼也飼養(yǎng)牛和山羊,據(jù)說他們習(xí)慣一天三頓吃面糊糊。由于我們?nèi)サ臅r候不是飯點,所以我們沒能拍到他們吃飯的情形。向?qū)Ц嬖V我們,這里的辛巴族人保持傳統(tǒng)的飲食習(xí)慣,口糧主要是玉米,根本不用擔(dān)心災(zāi)難和饑餓。

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在辛巴族村里很少見到男人,他們通常都到山里放牧或狩獵。如今大多數(shù)男人都進(jìn)城里打工,所以辛巴族女人在家里,除了承擔(dān)撫養(yǎng)孩子的重任外,還包攬了給牛羊擠奶、擔(dān)水、做飯、撿柴火等一切家務(wù),甚至還包括和泥抹墻,維修房屋這樣的重活兒。

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納米比亞是世界上少數(shù)幾個將生態(tài)法寫進(jìn)憲法的國家之一,他們對自然環(huán)境和人類傳統(tǒng)文化保護(hù),有嚴(yán)格的法律法規(guī)。從這兩位姑娘的臉上,我們可以看到,至少在Otjikandero Himba Orphan Village這個孤兒院村里的辛巴族人,生活得還比較滿足平和。他們至今固守自己的傳統(tǒng)文化習(xí)俗,但也開始接受來訪者的提問和拍攝,不反對現(xiàn)代社會的贈予和影響。

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由一些私人慈善機構(gòu)或非營利性組織建立這樣的少數(shù)民族定居點,是現(xiàn)代社會幫助原始辛巴族人保留和保持傳統(tǒng)文化習(xí)俗的一種有效方式。這位辛巴族姑娘對來訪者拍的照片很感興趣,喜歡吃糖果,也愿意接受來訪者的贈予。

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有人批評這樣的參觀訪問方式,認(rèn)為不該收門票,應(yīng)該把辛巴族人放在完全的自然狀態(tài)下。也有專家表示,任其自生自然的想法太過天真理想化,由于辛巴族人本身的習(xí)俗和現(xiàn)代社會的影響,這個原始社會群族用不了幾十年就將不復(fù)存在,若不組織起來幫助他們,那么未來旅游者所能看到的,只有是更商業(yè)化的民俗村和表演者了。

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如何保留和傳承民族的傳統(tǒng)文化習(xí)俗,一直是現(xiàn)代人類社會的熱門話題。歐洲經(jīng)濟(jì)發(fā)達(dá)國家,如今已很難找到完全生活在原始狀態(tài)的土著人。我曾到過的芬蘭古城圖爾庫,那里有個原始村子雇傭?qū)H舜?6世紀(jì)古裝上班開門待客。相比之下,我認(rèn)為現(xiàn)在納米比亞仍能訪問到辛巴族紅泥人,應(yīng)該是很幸運的了。

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走訪拍攝納米比亞辛巴族紅泥人村,無疑是一次難忘的經(jīng)歷。(全文完)

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納米比亞的辛巴(Himba)族紅泥人,是近十年來互聯(lián)網(wǎng)發(fā)展才進(jìn)入大眾視野的。美麗的辛巴族女人傳統(tǒng)上用紅赭石粉拌和牛羊脂肪及草藥涂抹頭發(fā)和身體,保護(hù)自己不受太陽曬傷和蚊蟲叮咬,以致其外表呈現(xiàn)出特有的紅色,“紅泥人”之稱由此而生。如今走訪參觀辛巴族紅泥人村落,已成為納米比亞旅游的一個主要項目,也吸引著越來越多的人類學(xué)家和攝影愛好者。

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納米比亞共和國(The Republic of Namibia),原稱西南非洲,北同安哥拉、贊比亞為鄰,東、南毗博茨瓦納和南非,西瀕大西洋。海岸線長1600公里。西部沿海和東部內(nèi)陸地區(qū)為沙漠,北部為平原。15-18世紀(jì),荷蘭、葡萄牙、英國等殖民者先后入侵納米比亞。1890年被德國占領(lǐng)。1990年3月納米比亞實現(xiàn)獨立,成為非洲大陸最后一個獲得民族獨立的國家。

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納米比亞旅游資源豐富,是歐美游客的高端度假目的地,主要景點有世界上最古老的蘇絲斯黎(Sossusvlei)紅沙漠,南部非洲最大火烈鳥聚居地鯨灣港(Walvis Bay), 埃托沙國家動物園(Etosha National Park),十字角海豹灘(Cape Cross),骷髏海岸(Skeleton Coast),奧普沃辛巴族村落(Opuwo Himba Vallige)以及基特曼斯胡普箭袋樹森林莊園( Keetmanshoop Quiver Tree)等。2015年的 《Lonely Planet》將納米比亞評為年度十佳旅行目的地之一,非洲排名第一。

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我們的納米比亞行攝之旅是從首都溫得和克開始的。由于埃塞俄比亞航空公司的航司航段關(guān)系,我們從肯尼亞出來,必須先回埃塞俄比亞首都亞的斯亞貝巴,然后飛到南非的約翰內(nèi)斯堡中轉(zhuǎn),這才能到溫得和克。上圖是我們在納米比亞8天7晚的行程示意圖,最初的計劃是租車自駕游,后考慮再三決定雇車。

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由于行程關(guān)系,走納米比亞的這一圈,我們沒去最北面庫內(nèi)內(nèi)(Kunene)地區(qū)的奧普沃(Opuwo),那是辛巴族人的聚居地,他們至今還生活在原始社會的狀態(tài)下。我們選擇了去埃托沙國家動物園順路能到的卡馬尼亞布(Kamanjab)小鎮(zhèn),附近也有辛巴族人聚居點,我們選擇走訪的是個辛巴族人的孤兒院村(Otjikandero Himba Orphan Village)。上圖攝于紅沙漠里的死亡谷。

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我們也沒去納米布沙漠最南緣的基德曼斯胡普(Keetmanshoop),那里是拍攝星空下箭袋樹的絕佳之地。我們是計劃好在半路欣賞了只有在極旱地區(qū)才有的珍稀植物箭袋樹。若上述兩地都去,我們的行程至少還要增加兩天,且還很趕。如果這些地方的景點都去走一遍,那么我們這次非洲四國連游就要超過一個月。還是那句話,世界這么大,我們只能有選擇地去看看。上圖的箭袋樹攝于去紅沙漠途中。

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辛巴人是生活在納米比亞北部庫內(nèi)內(nèi)(Kunene)地區(qū)(原為Kaokoland)和安哥拉庫內(nèi)內(nèi)河沿岸的土著民族。原始的辛巴人是赫雷羅(Herero)游牧人的后裔,因為戰(zhàn)爭,他們逃到了納米比亞西北部氣候惡劣的奧普沃(Opuwo)地區(qū)。歷史變遷幾度沉浮后的辛巴族人以畜牧種植為生,至今保留著一些古老的傳統(tǒng)文化習(xí)俗,包括他們自己的奧吉辛巴語言、獨特的社會結(jié)構(gòu),以及獨特的生活習(xí)俗和裝束打扮。

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有資料提到,由于一種神秘的種族遺傳基因,很多辛巴男孩在15歲之前就夭折了,能順利存活下來的只有五分之一左右。這導(dǎo)致多數(shù)辛巴族部落男女比例嚴(yán)重失調(diào),差異甚至高達(dá)1:11。辛巴族人口數(shù)量急劇下降,加之外來文明的同化,據(jù)說納米比亞的辛巴族人口已經(jīng)從原來的5萬人,下降到目前的2萬人,是個行將消失的原始社會群族,故又有被稱之為“最后的紅泥人”和“最后的原始部落”。

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走訪拍攝辛巴族紅泥人,是我們這次行攝納米比亞的重點。從西海岸到埃托沙國家動物園,走C40公路,必經(jīng)卡馬尼亞布(Kamanjabu)。到了卡鎮(zhèn)后再驅(qū)車20多公里土路,就能到Otjikandero Himba Orphanage Village了。那是納米比亞第一個注冊在案的孤兒信托基金所在地,建點于1999年,創(chuàng)始人是南非白人Jaco Burger。在這個孤兒院村里的辛巴人,完全保持原始的生活狀態(tài)。這個救助孤兒基金項目也從奧普沃地區(qū)招募一些辛巴族婦女志愿者,負(fù)責(zé)照看村里的孤兒,志愿者定期輪換。這些辛巴族婦女也帶著自己的孩子,一起在這個定居點生活。項目基金提供她們糧食和醫(yī)療保障。

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進(jìn)這個辛巴族孤兒院村大門是要收費的,有向?qū)氵M(jìn)村,然后就可以比較放松隨意地訪問和拍照了。上圖就是這個村子的現(xiàn)狀,辛巴人的尖頂草屋,墻是由樹棍圍起來,再抹上牛糞和泥巴。辛巴人家庭施行一夫多妻制,第一個老婆必須是族長指定的,然后才可以娶自己喜歡的第二或第三夫人,但條件是至少三頭牛的聘禮。而且多一個老婆,就要另蓋一個草屋。幾房妻室,相對集中,再由樹枝作柵欄,圍成一個大家庭。辛巴人家里十分簡陋,除了地上鋪幾張羊皮,就只有鍋碗瓢盆了。

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盡管外部社會日新月異,但辛巴族人依然固守著屬于他們自己的文化和習(xí)俗。傳統(tǒng)的辛巴女人,常年裸露上身,腰間系一條短小的山羊皮圍裙。她們喜歡佩戴以皮革、鐵或銅為材料的大項圈,也有用動物骨頭碎片點綴裝飾。辛巴女人最重要、最珍貴的珠寶首飾,是在她生下第一個孩子后才能得到的一條有白色大貝殼墜子的項鏈,它象征一個女人的生育能力。

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由于世世代代生活在干旱貧瘠的沙土地帶,水資源極度缺乏,所以辛巴族只有已婚男子才夠資格用水洗澡。傳統(tǒng)上的辛巴女人確實很少洗澡,她們將一種取之山里的紅赭石(據(jù)說就是氧化鐵Red ochre、赤鐵礦石Hematite)磨成粉,并與牛羊脂肪以及芳香樹脂(omuzumba)調(diào)合成一種泥巴糊糊或油膏涂抹在頭發(fā)和身上,這種油膏被稱之為“Otjize”。

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辛巴族女子涂抹這種紅色的“Otjize”在頭發(fā)和身上,以滋潤肌膚同時保護(hù)自己不受太陽曬傷和蚊蟲叮咬。據(jù)說這種護(hù)膚防曬油膏還有美容脫毛的功效,久而久之便成了辛巴族女子公認(rèn)的美。如今這種文化習(xí)俗已經(jīng)受到現(xiàn)代社會的廣泛關(guān)注,也令攝影師們趨之若鶩。

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很多人都會對辛巴族女子的生活習(xí)俗刨根問底。據(jù)介紹,辛巴族女人是不洗澡的,但其實她們只是換一種方式保持個人的清潔衛(wèi)生。辛巴族女子每天早起后,要花大量時間“洗煙浴(smoke bath)”,我理解這應(yīng)該是一種“Otjize”熏香。

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這種熏香具體做法是,準(zhǔn)備一個鋪了燒紅木炭的盛器,撒上些芳香樹脂(omuzumba),也有類似的樹葉軟木等,讓其受熱后升騰起蒸汽煙霧,辛巴女人以此來熏蒸自己的身體。她們甚至還會用毯子從頭蓋到腳,把整個身子悶在蒸汽和煙霧里,邊出汗邊熏蒸,此為全身沐浴。

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回國后我查了一下有關(guān)資料,辛巴族女子用于熏蒸身體的芳香樹脂,是一種灌木植物“Commiphara Saxicola”,是橄欖科草藥類的沒藥屬植物“myrrhs”的一種,生長在極旱地區(qū)的巖層里,在非洲的索馬里、埃塞俄比亞和阿拉伯半島南部等地也有分布。沒藥是一種樹脂乳膠,中藥用于活血化瘀。古埃及人還用沒藥制作芳香精油,殺菌消毒力強,還抗皺。上圖女孩子手里提著的兩個罐子,應(yīng)該就是迷你版的熏香器皿。

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辛巴女人的發(fā)型是真正的杰作,而且隨著年齡和生理狀態(tài)的變化,辛巴女子的發(fā)型也發(fā)生著不同的變化。小女孩的頭發(fā)是向前梳束成兩條辮子,稱之為“Oruzo”(見上圖左邊那個小女孩);進(jìn)入青春期的少女,頭發(fā)開始向兩邊梳,并編成許多小辮子,而且可以開始抹上“Otjize”泥巴糊糊。小男孩只是剃掉兩側(cè)頭發(fā),剩下頭頂一簇,梳成辮子直接甩向后腦勺,或者干脆都剃光頭。

","text_del":0,"type":1,"video_del":0,"video_thumbnail_del":0,"vote_del":0,"watermark":"?meipian-watermark/bucket/ivwen/key/dXNlcnMvNTMwOTQyL2VlNzZiZDkwLWYwY2EtMTFlOS1iM2UwLTE1YjEzMTg1NmE5NF9fanBnLmhlaWM=/nickname/5Lil5a2Q5YGl77yI5ael6K6w6ICF77yJ5LiK5rW3/userid/NTMwOTQy/sign/d409f5dcf436c2d9b0d25cf3bc322ea2"},{"audio_del":0,"audio_music_id":0,"ext":{"unique_id":"696fea428136aa77acff2a47072d4dc0"},"img_del":0,"img_height":756,"img_url":"https://ss-mpvolc.meipian.me/users/530942/47995810-f0cb-11e9-b3e0-15b131856a94__jpg.heic","img_width":1080,"is_origin":false,"is_template_subtitle":false,"location_del":0,"sectionPublished":true,"sell_del":0,"source":0,"subtitle_state":0,"text":"婚后婦女會在頭頂綁上一個精致的(Erembe headdress)頭飾,這個像犄角的頭飾是用牛皮或山羊皮制成的?!凹t泥人”是納米比亞辛巴族女人的特征,辛巴人認(rèn)為這種紅顏色很漂亮,正好是與他們腳下紅色的土地和身上流淌著的紅色血液一致,是生命的象征。辛巴族男人身上不抹“Otjize”。
","text_del":0,"type":1,"video_del":0,"video_thumbnail_del":0,"vote_del":0,"watermark":"?meipian-watermark/bucket/ivwen/key/dXNlcnMvNTMwOTQyLzQ3OTk1ODEwLWYwY2ItMTFlOS1iM2UwLTE1YjEzMTg1NmE5NF9fanBnLmhlaWM=/nickname/5Lil5a2Q5YGl77yI5ael6K6w6ICF77yJ5LiK5rW3/userid/NTMwOTQy/sign/d409f5dcf436c2d9b0d25cf3bc322ea2"},{"audio_del":0,"audio_music_id":0,"ext":{"unique_id":"585c56105101ec4cdac9398362b3d94d"},"img_del":0,"img_height":720,"img_url":"https://ss-mpvolc.meipian.me/users/530942/ee925be0-f0ca-11e9-b3e0-15b131856a94__jpg.heic","img_width":1080,"is_origin":false,"is_template_subtitle":false,"location_del":0,"sectionPublished":true,"sell_del":0,"source":0,"subtitle_state":0,"text":"辛巴女人梳理頭發(fā)過程可謂真正的工藝制作過程。我們走訪的這個定居點,看到最多的情形就是女人們坐在庇蔭處一起梳頭發(fā)編辮子。由于過程繁復(fù),據(jù)說一個人做一次頭發(fā)大約需要三天才能完成,所以大多數(shù)辛巴女人上午都在做家務(wù),到了下午才開始互幫互助做頭發(fā),這也成為辛巴人的一種社交形式。
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一個辛巴女人做一次頭發(fā),幾乎是通過多人合作才能完成。有一個人專門是梳頭發(fā)編辮子的,另外幾個人負(fù)責(zé)捻線,因為編辮子還需要大量的線來纏繞,這樣編成的辮子才能長久保持形狀,不至于很快松散掉。從上圖還能看到,成年婦女戴環(huán)狀腳鐲,據(jù)說它們的作用是保護(hù)腳踝不被毒蟲和野獸叮咬。

","text_del":0,"type":1,"video_del":0,"video_thumbnail_del":0,"vote_del":0,"watermark":"?meipian-watermark/bucket/ivwen/key/dXNlcnMvNTMwOTQyL2VlN2Y0OTEwLWYwY2EtMTFlOS1iM2UwLTE1YjEzMTg1NmE5NF9fanBnLmhlaWM=/nickname/5Lil5a2Q5YGl77yI5ael6K6w6ICF77yJ5LiK5rW3/userid/NTMwOTQy/sign/d409f5dcf436c2d9b0d25cf3bc322ea2"},{"audio_del":0,"audio_music_id":0,"ext":{"unique_id":"4dbeb97ef16975bdb631de0d84737cdc"},"img_del":0,"img_height":1080,"img_url":"https://ss-mpvolc.meipian.me/users/530942/eeae9670-f0ca-11e9-b3e0-15b131856a94__jpg.heic","img_width":1080,"is_origin":false,"is_template_subtitle":false,"location_del":0,"sectionPublished":true,"sell_del":0,"source":0,"subtitle_state":0,"text":"

我們也發(fā)現(xiàn),辛巴女人辮子的上半部分是自己的真頭發(fā),而下半部分則是假發(fā),這真假兩截頭發(fā)要接起來,也是件很費功夫的事情。這讓我理解和相信,為什么說辛巴女子做一次頭發(fā)要三天時間,而且需要多人合作、互幫互助才能完成。

","text_del":0,"type":1,"video_del":0,"video_thumbnail_del":0,"vote_del":0,"watermark":"?meipian-watermark/bucket/ivwen/key/dXNlcnMvNTMwOTQyL2VlYWU5NjcwLWYwY2EtMTFlOS1iM2UwLTE1YjEzMTg1NmE5NF9fanBnLmhlaWM=/nickname/5Lil5a2Q5YGl77yI5ael6K6w6ICF77yJ5LiK5rW3/userid/NTMwOTQy/sign/d409f5dcf436c2d9b0d25cf3bc322ea2"},{"audio_del":0,"audio_music_id":0,"ext":{"unique_id":"638fa3d44e8f65ebbaac34eb0c76277d"},"img_del":0,"img_height":964,"img_url":"https://ss-mpvolc.meipian.me/users/530942/15ad0a40-f0cb-11e9-b3e0-15b131856a94__jpg.heic","img_width":1080,"is_origin":false,"is_template_subtitle":false,"location_del":0,"sectionPublished":true,"sell_del":0,"source":0,"subtitle_state":0,"text":"那些社會地位高的辛巴族婦女,有時會在頭飾或頸項掛上小跳羚羊角,以示與別的婦女之區(qū)別。有些婦女也可能佩戴金屬手鐲,據(jù)說這象征著她們與祖先的神圣聯(lián)系。
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辛巴人種莊稼也飼養(yǎng)牛和山羊,據(jù)說他們習(xí)慣一天三頓吃面糊糊。由于我們?nèi)サ臅r候不是飯點,所以我們沒能拍到他們吃飯的情形。向?qū)Ц嬖V我們,這里的辛巴族人保持傳統(tǒng)的飲食習(xí)慣,口糧主要是玉米,根本不用擔(dān)心災(zāi)難和饑餓。

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在辛巴族村里很少見到男人,他們通常都到山里放牧或狩獵。如今大多數(shù)男人都進(jìn)城里打工,所以辛巴族女人在家里,除了承擔(dān)撫養(yǎng)孩子的重任外,還包攬了給牛羊擠奶、擔(dān)水、做飯、撿柴火等一切家務(wù),甚至還包括和泥抹墻,維修房屋這樣的重活兒。

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納米比亞是世界上少數(shù)幾個將生態(tài)法寫進(jìn)憲法的國家之一,他們對自然環(huán)境和人類傳統(tǒng)文化保護(hù),有嚴(yán)格的法律法規(guī)。從這兩位姑娘的臉上,我們可以看到,至少在Otjikandero Himba Orphan Village這個孤兒院村里的辛巴族人,生活得還比較滿足平和。他們至今固守自己的傳統(tǒng)文化習(xí)俗,但也開始接受來訪者的提問和拍攝,不反對現(xiàn)代社會的贈予和影響。

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由一些私人慈善機構(gòu)或非營利性組織建立這樣的少數(shù)民族定居點,是現(xiàn)代社會幫助原始辛巴族人保留和保持傳統(tǒng)文化習(xí)俗的一種有效方式。這位辛巴族姑娘對來訪者拍的照片很感興趣,喜歡吃糖果,也愿意接受來訪者的贈予。

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有人批評這樣的參觀訪問方式,認(rèn)為不該收門票,應(yīng)該把辛巴族人放在完全的自然狀態(tài)下。也有專家表示,任其自生自然的想法太過天真理想化,由于辛巴族人本身的習(xí)俗和現(xiàn)代社會的影響,這個原始社會群族用不了幾十年就將不復(fù)存在,若不組織起來幫助他們,那么未來旅游者所能看到的,只有是更商業(yè)化的民俗村和表演者了。

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如何保留和傳承民族的傳統(tǒng)文化習(xí)俗,一直是現(xiàn)代人類社會的熱門話題。歐洲經(jīng)濟(jì)發(fā)達(dá)國家,如今已很難找到完全生活在原始狀態(tài)的土著人。我曾到過的芬蘭古城圖爾庫,那里有個原始村子雇傭?qū)H舜?6世紀(jì)古裝上班開門待客。相比之下,我認(rèn)為現(xiàn)在納米比亞仍能訪問到辛巴族紅泥人,應(yīng)該是很幸運的了。

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走訪拍攝納米比亞辛巴族紅泥人村,無疑是一次難忘的經(jīng)歷。(全文完)

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